Thursday, April 24, 2014

When in Oregon..

  Weather turned out to be our greatest adversary for the next few days. Dark skies obscured the views, while intermittent downpours pounded the windshield and reduced visibility to few feet. Dangerous enough on a state highway, more so with the behemoths of trucks speeding by. The relentless deluge lifted once every few hours, enough to show us bright yellow signs warning against prisoner hitchhikers or the presence of rattlesnakes. Brrr.



  More significantly for us, since our budget trip was centered around camping, the constant rain created somewhat of a conundrum. Setting up camp in rain is one of the more unpleasant activities around. For me, second only to running in ski boots. But the weather finally relented, and we found a free campsite in a valley overlooking the Snake River near the Idaho/Oregon border. Back to the basics, P wandered into the brush to gather firewood. We were forced to forgo showers and avail ourselves of the outhouse. But we were the only occupants on the big site. Sunset painted the sky blush pink, the reflection in the river magnifying the effect. As we prepared our supper over the bonfire, the gentle bubble of the rushing water and the chilling howl of a coyote were the only sounds louder than the sizzle of our grilling sausages. Clink of our cold beers. The solitude was complete.



  The next day, Keep Portland Weird bumper stickers announced that yes, we finally reached Portland, the land of hugs, drizzle and sunflowers. Our friend, Nick, took us in and showed us around town. Despite a rain-threatening Saturday morning, smartphones in hand and hour-by-hour checks on sunshine prediction apps, we were invited by Nick and Company to join a favorite, we were told, Oregon past-time – floating down a river. An assembly of more and less sturdy floating devices, plenty of sunscreen and some laced drinks later, we completed our tour of the scenic Clackamas River. In the evening, we came back to town hungry and exhausted, but a scalding shower infused us with a much needed second wind, as we pulled it together to attend a local concert of our friend's band. That friend was none other than Ryan, our Cambodian “biking crew” member. The intimate venue created a low-key event that was a perfect cap off to the day.






  Portland was the furthermost north we ventured. I regretted not going to Seattle, but I guess we'll have to leave it for next time. There's only so much we can demand of the courageous Altima. On our way out of town, P snagged an interview, which eventually turned into a job offer. Unhurried and a bit stunned that things were unfolding so fast, we headed to southern Oregon for a few days to hang with Ryan and Vanessa at their farms.


  Whenever I thought of great mountain ranges, Oregon never came to mind. That is, until we visited. Seemingly a well-kept secret of the locals and the few transplants lucky enough to live there, the scenery is unparalleled. Oregon is green due to all the precipitation, but the addition of mountains and rivers and country roads and just SPACE makes up a vibrant setting that only Mother Nature could create and take credit for. At Vanessa's farm (complete with four dogs, countless ducks, turkeys and a goat), we got a glimpse of the peaceful, out-of-a-busy city way of life. A bbq one night (with the juiciest and most succulent corn on the cob ever), a guitar jam session on another, and of course an obligatory river float through towering canyons, we spent the days and evenings socializing the old school way, face to face, no computers or TVs or useless white noise present.













  Grateful for the chilled out experience, we again threw ourselves into the road trip rhythm and headed on south to California. Tune in tone-deaf humming... Caaaliforniaaaa Dreamin'!!


Friday, February 28, 2014

To The Mile High City and Beyond

  It has been months since I last even logged on to my blogger account. And I probably would have kept it that way when, in the course of digital unpacking in Denver, I stumbled upon our U.S. road trip photos.

  While in Asia, P and I visited places – jungles, mountains and historical towns – that fed our curiosity and with it, our drive to travel. We met people who allowed us a glance into the local perspective. We pushed our fears and our limits, whether scuba-diving or meditating. And we ate – boy, did we eat! - our way through half the continent.

  And while the unfamiliar always beckons, the road trip out West allowed us a solid transition upon our return home. We still got to travel, but on somewhat more familiar ground, with a common language, currency and customs.

  It's one thing to know and different to experience, so we were surprised to discover just how diverse, captivating and simply beautiful the U.S. is, all while on a (slightly higher) budget. Granted, we made some adjustments and gladly accepted housing offers of some gracious host friends, but let me start at the beginning.

  Point of origin: my fabulous Chicago. Camping gear packed. Cooler equipped with all manner of deliciousness. Mindsets prepped and positive, in anticipation of a great Kerouac adventure West. Ok, maybe minus the Kerouac disorganization. We beseeched the automotive spirits so that P's grandma of an Altima, weird noises, defective A/C and all, survive the distance ahead of us. So far, so good. So set, we embarked on this new adventure, only to face hundreds upon hundreds of miles of …corn. Those of you who covered the 1,000 mile stretch of highway between Chicago and Denver have come to know it as one of the most mind-numbingly boring routes ever. But equipped with an audiobook, an idea borrowed from the ever-patient cross-country truck drivers, the miles flew by. A surprisingly pleasant overnight stop with some improvised cooking at an RV campground in Who Knows, Nebraska later, and we reached our destination without incident.


A feast for royalty. Less the persistent months.

Who needs a Starbucks?

How civilized, and right by a private airport trip.

  I've been to Denver twice before, but never longer than a casual drive-through or a business conference. This time, we discovered the city with some local input, courtesy of P's childhood pal Daniel, a Denver enthusiast through and through. So instead of checking off tourist traps like the 16th Street Mall, we meandered through the city's neighborhoods, the unusual September heat slowing down the already leisurely pace. Denver's architecture, at least in its older parts like Capitol Hill, Golden Triangle, Baker or Cole, is diverse and eclectic, with colorfully painted brick buildings, majestic Victorian homes with front-encasing porches and antique rowhouses, all so rarely found in Chicago. Despite its frequent periods of drought, Denver relishes its stately trees and miles upon miles of city parks and bike trails. Maybe because of the heat, or maybe, in our eyes, in comparison to the pulsing rhythm of Chicago, the city took on the hush of a quiet town. The reduced noise level, the pleasant Denverite attitudes, the no-one-is-in-a-hurry three hour meals, peeks of the still snow-tipped mountains, the sunny blue sky a call of the wild to spend time outdoors – all of these showed us how a change in setting affects the quality of life. Good thing too, since Denver was our top relocation destination.

P & D




Too bad the pic doesn't reflect the scale

  Memorable event: Exhausted with all the walking, we got to a 17th Street bar just in time to people-watch the aftermath of New Belgium's Tour de Fat revelry, an eclectic fundraiser characterized by bikes, funky costumes and ,what else, beer. Note to self: pen it into the calendar for 2014.


  After P dispensed with the formality of dropping off his resumes to some firms, an antiquated but surprisingly effective way to search for jobs, we said our goodbyes and thank yous to Daniel and his family, including his two year old who became my instant best buddy, with a promise to stop by on our way back.
With some luck, we squeezed onto a waiting list (I recommend advance reservations) for a New Belgium brewery tour in Fort Collins, on our way out of the state. Our enthusiastic and well-trained guide let us through a two hour tour, casually filling us in on the brewery's and its founders' histories, the not-so-secret secrets of the brewing process and the perks of being an employee. Of course, craft beer tastings were included, and since P was the driver, I was the one to indulge.







  For a few days before we left Denver, the weather took a turn for the worse, and daily we woke up to unseasonably drizzly mornings. By the time we left Fort Collins, the drizzle became rain and then a deluge that was eventually declared a state of emergency in which many Coloradans lost their homes. The pounding rain made long-distance driving slippery and barely controllable, so after struggling in Wyoming we gave up and found a hotel room for the night. Only the next morning we found out that parts of the highways we drove on just the day before closed due to flooding. With hopes for a better weather prognosis and best wishes for those left in the wake, we continued to Oregon.

A surely ominous sign


Budget tips:

  1. Check out freecampsites.net/usa/ for a list of free or low cost camp sites and their amenities, ranging from basic with a pit toilet to full shower, in some pretty scenic locations. We traveled with a tent but encountered many tourists with RV's or vans, a more comfortable long-term alternative.
  2. Priceline.com has a “Name Your Own Price” option, great for last minute (ie same evening) hotel deals.

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

The Grand Western Adventure

  Look up and imagine. A star-strewn sky, the tiny bright lights blinking in amusement. Leaf covered branches of deciduous trees, their ominous overhang softened by the light of the bonfire below. Gaze down. Sizzling sausages on wooden sticks, Polish style, with a side of fire grilled potatoes topped with sheep cheese. Listen. Cicadas sing their universal hymn, with a chorus of frogs in the background. Peaceful. Quiet. But definitely not Asia. Instead, it's Wisconsin and a preclude to the upcoming weeks.

  A month into homecoming, and I already feel restless. I guess wanderlust is never truly extinguished. It was a good month. Time spent with family and friends, visiting the old haunts and reminiscing on the past nine months, here and in Asia. A time of unpacking of the house, running errands and generally getting back to reality. Except reality differs now. We feel different, thankfully not yet immersed in the grind of a routine life. We still have the positive energy left over from an active travel lifestyle. So we make more plans...

  ...And decide to try a life somewhere outside the fabulous but busy Chicago. In preparation, we road-trip out West to see how reality flows elsewhere. Maybe a bit closer to nature. Tent, cooler and all. And so the trip continues on a budget.


  First stop: Denver. Stay tuned.

Sunday, August 4, 2013

Ready? No. Set? No. Take-off!

Almost nine months later, and here we are.  At the dreaded return to routine.  Or the much anticipated return home.  We feel sad, somewhat nostalgic.  At the same time, it's exciting to see loved ones, and we're ready to experience the comforts of home.  At home.  The emotions varied from moment to moment.

We arrived at the KL airport early, and spent the last hours discussing the necessities of a return to the regularly scheduled programming that is life.  P’s flight to Poland left hours before mine, and I kept myself busy by browsing the expensive shops.  A girl can dream, although that dream was quickly smashed by the stink-eye of a perfumed sales lady, who refused to recognize my 9 months old backpacker gear of ratty shirt and Ali Baba pants as trendsetting.  Oh, well.  What does she know.  A final turn in the ubiquitous squat toilet, for old times’ sake, and it was time for a grand departure from Asia. 

We didn't leave unchanged.  Along with the mandatory souvenirs, we took back so much more.  So, a few of my thoughts after this surreal experience:

-          We learned to yield chopsticks like pros.

-          The local approach: fight heat with heat, both of the temperature and spiciness variety.  I’m still not convinced that it works, although it does quench thirst.

-          We learned to accept things as they are, not as we thought they ought to be.  It’s an elusive concept, and I hope we can still practice it back home, as its application is truly universal.

-          No English?  No problem.  You’d be surprised how effective sign language becomes.  Conversely, locals become very attuned to your body language, so check what you may be inadvertently communicating.

-          Curiosity is a major common trait of every traveler.

-          I prefer nature-made landscapes to man-made ones.

-          You may not know their name, but you've learned their life story.  Simple, with so little time at the crossroads of these common travel paths, people tend to open up more.  And more quickly.

-          Man, jungle insects make some weird noises.  I spent many a night awake, imagining what the creepy crawlies are doing.  And, more importantly, where they’re doing it.  Well, not IT.

-          Sometimes, food is best enjoyed while eaten with hands. For some unfathomable reason, it just tastes better.

-          Check and recheck everything.  And I mean everything.  The smallest detail can stunt your plans.

-          Freshly laundered clothes are a luxury under-appreciated back home.

-          My new favorite perfume: mosquito repellent.  No, not really.

-          I nominate the gecko for the least fussy pet award.  Feeds itself while taking care of those pesky insects.  Makes debatably cooing sounds, perfect for sleep.  No need for artificial white noise.

-          Smaller meals and an intense exercise regimen (up and down hotel stairs with a 10 kg bag, a few times a day) make for a healthy lifestyle.  Except maybe for the tons of dust you tend to swallow on local rides.

-          The proverbial “they” say that “getting there is half the fun”.  Yup, the “getting there” part makes for some really funny stories.

-          Get a thick skin.  As necessary as the fore-mentioned mosquito repellent, but for different reasons.

-          Skype rulez.  The end.

Most importantly, don’t lose sight that you are there to enjoy yourself.  Look.  See.  Quest with all your senses.  Trip of a lifetime and all that. 


See you on the road!

Saturday, July 20, 2013

Bali

  So the original plan for Bali (that of the Eat, Pray, Love trifecta, which incidentally made Bali the touristy place it is today), was a continuation of our motorcycle diaries. But like all well-designed schemes, it quickly underwent a major change. Namely the motorcycle part. A quick assessment of the seemingly insurmountable traffic congestion, obscure road signage and the weeping scrapes on the limbs of many a tourist convinced us to scrap it. With a week left, why tempt Lady Luck?

Ubud
  From Lombok, we took the slow ferry into the harbor at Padang Bai. A tout quickly shepherded us into the designated shuttle,which dropped us off in Ubud, a place we've heard about all the way back in Bangkok. And...we've never seen so many tourists and, what that entails, so many persistent touts. I can see the attraction. Colorful Ubud, with its intricate Balinese architecture and maze-like courtyards, galleries for art purveyors of every kind and the Indonesian take on Hinduism, suffused with the incense smoke of the morning food offerings, is pleasing to the eye. Advanced infrastructure, catered to the tourist demand, makes for a comfortable stay. Ubud offers something both for the body and the mind – spas, markets, temples, cooking and yoga courses, cultural performances and language lessons all compete for attention. But take a little time outside of the city central itself, and you can still recognize the origins of the pull of this place that started the tourist hype in the first place. Rice paddies, green and fringed by palm trees and tiled by muck-spattered villagers in the traditional ways, hint of the olden days. And they get even better way outside of town. Once you manage to leave the made-to-order and mass-produced souvenir shops, that is.

Monkey sanctuary


Cute, but beware, they sometimes bite

Suckling pig

Typical courtyard.  Right from our front door.


Morning offerings





Luwak coffee.  Yes, we tried a cup.

Padang Bai
  Beaches in Bali differ in size, access and the color of sand, but they do have one thing in common: huge waves. While that may make for surfers' paradise, many beaches are not recommended for swimming, with red flags warning of strong currents. We had our goal: find the perfect beach. Researched showed us that our best bet was to go back to Padang Bai on the east coast of Bali. Considering that most tourists simply pass through the harbor and a few steps from the main strip promised a more simple life, we retraced our steps. Indeed, we found what we were looking for. Every morning, roosters competed for the honor of the loudest wake-up call (which annoyed the hell out of P). Chickens scattered on the road, while, in places, pigs, squealed in the background. Kids played loudly and joyfully in the courtyards, the noise only occasionally obscured by the calls to prayer. A village life, pungent smells included. But the nights were blissfully quiet.

  A short hike up some convoluted coast paths accessed a hidden beach, with white sand and clear, aquamarine water of the Indian Ocean. Earlier in the day, swimming is possible, although by afternoon, furious waves pound the shore, as if driven by Poseidon himself. Just a few steps south, as we found out by mistake, is a long beach with luminescent black sand. Not swimmable though. And a 20 km motorcycle ride to the village of Bug Bug offers up another sandy attraction. We had to try them all.



Kuta Beach
  Our time almost at a close, we moved closer to the airport by the famous(or infamous, depending on the interpretation) Kuta Beach, a monopoly on the touristic trail in Bali. Closest approximation of the vibe: Miami spring break. Its prominence on the party scene started as a surfers' haven, a given with the ridiculous waves that upstage the wide swath of white sand. And that's still the case, although its reputation as a playground for the young travelers has somewhat obscured that fact. Parties rage on until early hours of the morning, many places plying patrons with free booze, if not of the highest quality. Despite the revelry, the atmosphere is not as sleazy as in other places. No advertising of Thai ping pong shows, for instance, although you could easily score some rejuvenating Cialis, if you have the need. Maybe not the greatest place for our final days in SE Asia, but it will do.




  And for our concluding act, an overnight stopover in Kuala Lumpur, with a manic search for spices and Tandoori chicken. Pawel's off to Poland for some sailing and home-cooking, while I slowly make my way back to Chicago. Mom cannot wait ;)