Kolkata

  As apprehensive as I was about it (after stories of theft and such), the trip to Kolkata on the regular sleeper wagon was uneventful. Unexpectedly, we had problems finding a decent hotel room. After several hours of roaming around Sudder Street and trying to free ourselves from some pesky touts, we found a place for the night and booked another for the remaining three. Given our traveling experience on this trip, it was some of the most expensive accommodation while only the most basic standards were met.

  Kolkata is a former capital of the British India, developed by merchants of the East India Company in 1686. Now, it is India's second biggest city at 14.7 million people. It is considered its cultural center, producing a good number of well-known intellectuals from film to science and everything in between. The remnants of British influence are everywhere, but nowhere are they more apparent than in the crumbing colonial architecture of the Victorian era. It is stunning, although it is a shame that most of the historical buildings are not up-kept properly, as seen especially in the architecture surrounding BBD Bag.

  One of the most impressive sights is the astonishing Victoria Memorial, a museum of Kolkata's history, dedicated to Queen Victoria of England, and the gardens that surround it. Said to be a cross between the Taj Mahal and the White House, its a popular spot for romantic rendez-vous. There's also a light show at night, both in Bengali and English, which provides a short summary of the colonial history.

  Kolkata, renamed from Calcutta in 2001 as part of the city's revitalization, is also a city of disparities. Aside from all its splendor, it ''houses'' a big population of the poor, so apparent in the large number of beggars on the street as well as the shack slums as you stumble into some neighborhoods. We went to the Mother's House, Mother Teresa's former residence, and got a glance into her lifetime's work with the truly destitute. Her mission still continues the work, and accepts volunteers to help out daily.

  It was also in Kolkata that we were able to get some insight into the Indian culture, specifically its marriage traditions. We shared a beer with a pair of Indian men in their early 20s. When Pawel jokingly asked one of them when he's getting married, he replied nonchalantly that probably in 2014, after he gets the fun out of his system. The way it works in his caste, he explained, is that his father gets about 30 propositions from families of interested “prospects”. The father then sorts out the offers, compares family backgrounds, the women's specifics such as health or profession, then chooses about half for his son's review. The son then takes a look at the offers, including the women's photographs. He then chooses about five for a meet and greet to see with whom he's compatible. Once a candidate is chosen, the engagement can last anywhere from a couple of days to a year. Convenient, isn't it? Although the story should be taken with a grain of salt, considering the man's ego or our surroundings, I do believe he presented us with a relatively accurate picture. Of course, everything depends on the caste.

  After 5 days in Kolkata and a bout with TD (supposedly up to 70% of travelers get it within two weeks of arriving in India – thank God for Z-pac!), we got on the long, 50 hour train to the south of India, a journey of about 2,439 km. Next stop? Overnight stay in Kolam, since we arrived late at night, and then another, this time half hour, train ride to blissful Varkala for some much needed vacation from vacation. And to all the eff you's right now, we love you too ;)

St. John's Church

BBD Bag

Victoria Memorial

Clean laundry

Line for those without reservations.  Good luck.