Hot Hampi

  People often say they experience seesawing highs and lows when traveling in India, even more so than in other countries. The low became true for me as we set off for Hampi. In search of a rickshaw, at six in the morning, on a dark, rough dirt road, I stumble and the weight of the backpack takes me to the ground. I get nicely scraped and banged up, narrowly avoiding a twisted ankle. The rickshaw driver we find ostentatiously rips us off, and we have no choice but to accept it if we want to make the 6.45 AM bus. At the bus station, the freaking bus station, I step into a fresh cow pattie. I gag on reflex, the smell is so disgusting. Having faced the Indian buses before, I take a motion sickness pill, a non-drowsy one mind you, only to spend the entire 10 hour ride doped out and sleeping, not to mention dehydrated, since toilets for women are rare enough on the road. When we finally find a hotel room in smelly Hampi Bazaar, I open my cosmetics case, only to face off with two huge, oxygen-starved cockroaches. At least P is there with his sandal. I give up and call it a night.

  Thankfully, the next morning brings on a more optimistic perspective and better options. We move across the river to a quieter, nicer and infinitely cheaper part of Hampi. Another hut, although with better facilities, at Blue Eye. Laid-back and relaxed, it's a perfect base for exploring the ruins.

Temple elephant, for 10 rupees you can get a blessing :)

Lotus Mahal

Old elephant stables

  In the 16^th century, Hampi was the site of a capital city of one of the largest existing Hindi empires of the time. Despite (or maybe because of) its thriving prosperity, Hampi was razed to the ground by a confederacy of sultanates in 1565. Its many buildings, from a palace complex to numerous temples, made of durable granite, persist to this day, often restored to great detail. The ruins are further located in an improbably breath-taking setting: great copper boulders, formed by ages of volcanic activity (far as the eye can see), electric green palms, rice fields and banana plantations (some of the sweetest bananas I've ever tasted!), all set against an azure sky.

Globalization?

  We rented a motorcycle, and spent two days exploring the beautiful countryside, free to move as we wish. The heat of Hampi during early afternoon hours usually drove us into a shade, as temperatures usually exceeded 100 F.

  One day, we drove to a man-made reservoir lake. P took a refreshing dip while I relaxed in the shade, dressed, all too aware of the constant attention of the local male gawkers, come to stare at women in bikinis. Man, does this get frustrating. Especially when they try taking pictures, although by then someone responds and they quickly flee.

A man is an island?

  Finally planning our transport days in advance,we booked a bunk on an AC sleeper bus (such luxury!). Reluctant to leave this place of quiet, we are once again on the road, this time to the south of Goa, via Canacona to Palolem Beach. Yes, another beach, but this time our last in India.