Nong Khiaw, Muang Ngoi Neua and Bday Non-Celebrations

  Let's do the simple math. You have an enlarged version of a pick-up truck, with side wooden benches and, if you're lucky, a tarp over your head to help out with any occasional rain. It's driving over roads that barely qualify as asphalt. It is full to the brim. Two people leave, four more get on. Those four are monks, who cannot sit next to women, lest we tempt them with our lustful ways. What do you get? One huge mash-pit, minus the heavy metal music.

  And then it started to rain. A standard these days, it rains at least once a day (or night). At least not for very long, and the heady temperatures return to normal-er proportions. And the vegetation? Lush green, and no longer parched for water.

  We got off in Nong Khiaw, ridiculously tired after a mere three hour ride, only to have our jaws drop open. For the first time ever, I visually confirmed the existence of such a phenomenon as a karst. It is a limestone mountain, prone to sinkholes and caves. Dramatic and simply majestic, especially when set again a green and blue background. We found a bungalow with a cozy hammock, right over the Nam Ou river and a prime view of the vistas. And... we did nothing else.

Some use these as "decoration"

Duck laap, Lao specialty

  The lazy spree continued as we moved an hour north to the vehicle-free Muang Ngoi Neua. A small village accessible mostly by boats, I thought it the ideal spot to spend another birthday. Despite warnings of persistent leeches, we (ok, I) were determined to persevere. It was even more quiet than Nong Khiaw. No banks. No internet. Only that comfy hammock mattered. And Pawel. And ok, Dexter. I was catching up on Dexter. And evenings by candlelight. (We heard there was no electricity at certain times – not true anymore, times are progressing, but candlelight still fit the occasion.) How different from last year, when I celebrated by a bonfire with friends and family. But just as unique and just as appreciated. Just not sure how I feel about the crazy jungle bugs, even being a nature girl.

"Downtown" Muang Ngoi Neua

Little saleslady.  And she was persistent!

Yup, that's how I spent my bday

  But back to (still!) our reality. Another pick-up ride. This time P started learning yoga poses on his own, so uncomfortable were the seats. Quick night in Luang Prabang and we were off to party-central (at least, in the past), Vang Vieng.