windblown: Bada bing bada boom, welcome to Battambang

What a way to travel. From Koh Tao, we took a boat to Chumphon. Then, due to lack of other tickets, we boarded an overnight train in third class to Bangkok. Imagine trying to catch some zzz's while sitting ramrod straight, in extremely close quarters with fellow passengers, rearranging your limbs so, like a puzzle, they fit into the accommodating spaces. Very cozy. From there and with only minutes to spare, we caught a bus to the border-crossing with Cambodia in Poipet, infamous for its corrupt shenanigans and imaginative efforts to shake tourists out of their hard-earned money. We were lucky – we crossed two hours before the border was due to close, which meant the process was more efficient, there were no lines and no throbbing sun, and thus no bribes were necessary to speed up the wait. As soon as we were on the other side, a member of the three operating “associations” (some would call them mafias) informed us that there were no more buses to our final destination, Battambang, but of course, he would be happy to provide us with a shared taxi. With little choice left, we agreed and since the appropriate numerical requirement of passengers was complete (3 of 4 others were Polish!), we set off in cramped conditions for Battambang. We grabbed the last room at the comfortable Here be Dragons hotel (had to mention it for the Game of Thrones reference), and we hunkered down for the next few days.

Cambodia was torn apart in 1975 by the Communist Khmer Rouge regime, which over the course of four years massacred and starved to death almost 20% of its population. This estimate does not reflect the number of people who were maimed or displaced as result, and does little to describe the lasting psychological effects of the genocide. But it seems that Cambodians are a resilient people, determined to look towards the future. Progress is especially visible in the form of new infrastructure. The poverty is still wide-spread, almost more noticeable that in other countries we've visited, but people approach their daily reality with hard work, industriousness and a smile. Pretty inspiring, if you ask me.

The kids of Cambodia

Battambang, Cambodia's second largest city, was a good introduction to the country. Little traffic, steamy heat that rendered the town sleepy, great Khmer cuisine, genuine people and a berth of various attractions kept us in town for four days.

Daily fresh air aerobics

Of course, we also had to properly celebrate Pawel's birthday. In the morning, before the heat became too uncomfortable, we visited several temples.

Now that's a breakfast for $2

DJ, our driver

On a more somber note, the neighboring Killing Caves and their collection of bones reminded us of the tragic past.

Reminder of American bombs during Vietnam War

We took a ride on the bamboo train, a popular dismantleable mode of transportation of goods on old unused train tracks. We were like kids, speeding along at 30 mph. P even got a chance behind the steer.

In the evening, we attended a circus performance. Run by a French NGO, the circus provides local disadvantaged kids with an outlet for their talents and their energy. Modeled after the famous Cirque de Soleil, the performance was impressive, funny and professional. Some even make a future out of it.