The Burmese Days - Yangon

  When first planning this trip, we went back and forth on the idea of visiting Myanmar, formerly known as Burma. We read about many different impressions. On the one hand, the long established military junta in power (seemingly replaced by a civilian government in the tainted elections of 2010) has a long record of corruption and human rights violations that has left its people impoverished, repressed and isolated. For decades, the country has been under a travel boycott (not to mention Western sanctions), called for by an opposition party, the NLD (led by the now symbolic figure of Aung San Suu Kyi, under house arrest for non-consecutive 17 years) in defiance of the ongoing abuses. It lifted the boycott only in 2010, as a way to infuse funds into the struggling economy and thus help its people on the most basic level. Granted, many fees still fill the pockets of the few rich and in power, but conscientious and (we heard) independent travel can aid on the grassroots level. Unfortunately, the sub-par infrastructure and standards cannot fully support the influx of tourists, which means the prices on even basic accommodation, for example, have skyrocketed. With that said, Myanmar is still the unexplored land, attracting only a minuscule portion of tourists that visit, say, neighboring Thailand. In a way, this leaves the country and its warm, open people mostly untainted by the competition and lures of mass tourism and cut-throat development. Off the beaten path (or at least off the backpackers' Banana Pancake trail), it's a refreshing wonder to experience. Its reminder of the olden days is its greatest charm.

  So we heard, and finally decided to see for ourselves. We reached Bangkok, all of our attention bent to the task of obtaining our visas. We tried before, but lacked the time and the air tickets to complete the process. Again, we got up at 5 AM to reserve our spots in the queue, only to find a sign proclaiming the day a national holiday. The embassy was closed, of course. Super, especially since we had next-day departure tickets. Little we could do; we gritted our teeth and bought new ones for the day after. Hoping third time is a charm, we took our spots in the line at 7 AM, making sure our paperwork was immaculate (so: visa app from a shop around the corner, 2 passport photos, copy of flight reservations, copy of passports, passports themselves, and 1,260 bhat fee each, all needed for the express same day visas). About 3 hours of wait got us to the counter where an expedient clerk accepted the package. We returned at 3 PM to another line, this one hot and sweaty, after spending the day with a fellow Burma-bound Aussie at the MBK mall, relishing the air-con and the cheap, tasty eats. After another hour of wait and dreams of a long, cold shower, we left relieved, our glossy new visas and passports in hand. Fist bump.

  First stop: Yangon – former and still unofficial capital of Myanmar. Reminds me of some Polish cities back in the 80's, but more tarnished and cluttered. 

 Ongoing construction ensures most sidewalks (or broken slabs of concrete) are uneven, wobble and have holes you can hide your whole leg in. Unintentionally, of course. I recommend a flashlight for any night ventures (helps in the frequent power outages, too). 

  Vehicles speed by without any regard for pedestrians, so its their responsibility not to get hit. There are no motorcycles at least, as they were prohibited in the city after some high-ranking official got hit by one. The most popular method of dining is on little kiddie-sized plastic chairs, placed right on the “sidewalks”.

Man in longhyi

  Everyone and their mama is out on the streets, eating, socializing, watching soccer games on communal TVs, bickering good-naturedly. So interesting to sit back and watch, although our foreignness frequently engaged people's curiosity and invited the standard questions. Basic English was common enough. We heard disparaging opinions on the Burmese cuisine, seemingly a mix of Thai and Indian influences, but not as flavorful and more oily. Funnily, to get someone's attention, you make kissy noises. It felt a bit awkward at first, but the reaction was instantaneous. Tea-houses and cafes are rampant, but the prices are unexpectedly high. It was also hot. So hot, in fact, that steady rivulets of sweat left salty stains on all our clothes.

  We tripped and stumbled all over the central part of the city, admiring some outstanding colonial architecture. Most of it is neglected, although some renovations seem to be under way. 

  But the crown jewel of the city (literally!) is the Shwedagon Paya (pagoda). Supposedly originally constructed 2,500 years ago, at the time of Buddha, it has been gilded over the centuries with 90 tons of gold, thousands of precious stones, and a 70 karat diamond was affixed to the top of the highest spire. The pagoda looked beautiful at sunset, but it was the night lighting that truly showed off its grandeur. We learned that many Buddhist believers from the country hope to visit the pagoda at least once in their lifetime. 

  After a few days, the chaotic city drove us to seek a more peaceful location. We took a surprisingly efficient bus to Bagan for a peek at the immense ancient temples.

Practical Information, since there are such radical fluctuations in prices:

$1 = 876 kyat (at airport, despite what Lonely Planet says, one of the best exchange rates for now; both currencies are accepted interchangeably, though dollars usually cover higher expenses; all dollar bills have to be in pristine condition)

Express visa = 1,260 Thai bhat (about $40)

taxi from airport to city center = 8,000 kyat

Ocean Pearl hotel = $30 for a clean double room, with AC, free wifi and free breakfast

Shwedagon Paya = $5 or 5,000 kyat, taxi to paya = 2,000 kyat

taxi to bus station = 6,000 kyat

bus to Bagan = 15,000 kyat

bottle of water = 200 to 400 kyat

Good eats on 19th St