Water Wars - Thingyan, Inle Lake

 We considered ourselves pretty lucky, as, within a half hour of arriving to Mandalay from Kyaukme, we not only caught one of the last morning minivans out of town to Inle but also got some of the most comfortable seats in the house. Err, van, I mean. The seat also afforded me with an uninterrupted view of our driver's antics behind the wheel. A young kid, it seemed that he learned his skills playing Grand Theft Auto, and was now putting them into play for real. Traffic, mountainous roads with some wicked curves and the green faces and discreet puking noises of some fellow passengers did little to dampen his enthusiasm to beat some internal speed record. Only once his wallet, supposedly firmly lodged behind a visor, went flying out the window, launched by a wild turn, did he take his lead foot off the gas pedal. We arrived at our destination in 6 hours, instead of the regular 10. Enough said.

  After a search through all the budget hotels in Nyaungshwe by Inle, we made home at Minglabar Hotel, along with our companions for the week, Don and Jinhi. Our main objective – to survive the craziness that is Thingyan, the Water Festival celebration of the New Year, the biggest holiday in Myanmar. Lasting for four days, the one giant water fight and its intensity escalated from day to day. We bought some plastic water guns and decided to fight back, but a puny plastic toy was no match for huge buckets. We walked around, simply drenched, but I can't remember the last time I almost peed in my pants from laughing. Imagine: P chasing a bunch of kids, all squealing with delight, only to turn around with an 'oh-shit' look on his face and run back, with a bunch of previously hidden teenagers with buckets and a hose right on his heels. Nobody was spared, no pleas were granted. Women and tourists were especially targeted, as they provided the most desired reactions. The levity of the festival, combined with the ever-present chants from the temples in the background, created a surreal atmosphere of real...joy. Sure, alcohol was sometimes involved, as with any NYE celebration, but this was simply about the joy of living. It was a privilege to participate in it firsthand.

Don & Jinhi

Lock'n'Loaded

That soaked

  All bus service was interrupted for a few days, so besides water-fighting, we explored the Inle Lake area, both by bike and boat. On the bicycle ride around the lake, we encountered water blockades every few hundred meters or so. Despite various schemes, we were unable to avoid a soak, but it felt pleasant enough on a hot day. The boat tour gave us a glimpse of life on the lake itself. Although much has been commercialized to appease the interests of the tourists (we saw traditional crafts of weavers, cigar makers, smiths- traditional but no longer used, after we were inquisitive enough to ask), it was still interesting to see the few reminders of the past. So you'd have the fisherman who steers his canoe with his leg. The leaning bamboo shacks on stilts. The floating gardens, used to farm produce the organic way. Life as it was ways back.

Yarn from lotus stems 

Floating gardens

  With little time left in Burma, we decided to move on to nearby Kalaw right after the water festival ended. Service was still sporadic, so we relied on local rides. After a few switch-offs, we finally got a chance to ride on the roof of a truck. Good it lasted all of 15 minutes, as my head started to spin. But what a view! Kalaw is more of a backpacker town, an origin point for treks to Inle. We weren't interested, so we took the time to soak in the quiet ambiance, with some splendid views right from our balcony.

  And the road next leads to Mandalay!

Practical Information

Bus from Kyaukme to Mandalay – 7,000 kyat pp

Minibus from Mandalay to Nyaungshwe by Inle Lake – 15,000 kyat pp

Minglabar hotel in Nyaungshwe- $20-25, for large double rooms with bamboo motifs (we had to change rooms since we decided to stay longer), with a full free breakfast, wifi (I wouldn't expect miracles), free water refills, daily lime soda (what a nice touch) and even a meditation room; staff was superb, except for a somewhat grouchy owner

Bicycle rental – 1,000 kyat daily

Boat rental for the day – 15,000 kyat (we paid 18,000, since it was a holiday) for 4 people

3 shared pick-up trucks, local style, to Kalaw : to junction – 1,500 kyat, to Aung Ban – 2,000 kyat, to Kalaw, on the roof, nonetheless – 500 kyat

Golden Lily Guest House - $14 for double room with a balcony, en-suite bathroom and free breakfast, but beware of the bus tickets they sell!