The three Straits Settlements:
Georgetown (Penang), Melaka (Malacca), Singapore. Our last three big
metropolises. Days of lounging in the sun invigorated us with some
much-needed energy for further urban meandering.
We started with north-most Penang,
after sleeping through our bus stop, arriving close to the Thai
border and backtracking for 90 km. Along with Melaka, it was
designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 2008. Its colonial
district stems from a mix of inhabiting influences and supposedly
reminds of Singapore circa 1970s. It's vast, reaching into the
narrow streets of sleepy Chinatown and lively Little India. Funny
iron-wired plaques and wonderful street art line the streets.
Catered to tourists on the one hand, dilapidated in other instances,
Georgetown's architecture still evokes authenticity. We even stayed
in a beautiful heritage hotel.
Street art
Most picked ribbons: wealth and success
It's old school charming, but it was
Penang's reputation for excellent cuisine that drew us to the city.
Two words: hawker food. Prominent all around, from tiny to
stadium-sized, food courts and their hawker stalls attract all who
have good food, wide selection and cheap prices in mind. We happily
participated, ordering small portions to get in as many as possible.
We tried it all. Thick asam laksa, a spicy fish stew with a tamarind
base. Oysters fried in egg, soft on the inside, crunchy on the
outside. Tender duck noodles. Roti canai, flaky unleavened bread
with a curry. Nasi kandar, delicious curries served on steamed rice.
Chee cheong fun, a thin rice roll, filled with shrimp and topped
with a sweet sesame soy sauce. Satay, juicy skewered grilled meat.
Refreshing cendol, a dessert of shaved ice, coconut milk, green
noodles and palm sugar (possibly, unbelievably, with red beans, corn,
etc.). And of course, let's not forget Indian tandoori chicken, with
its mint yoghurt dip. Is your mouth watering yet?
Nasi kandar. Forget the presentation, it's all about the taste
Rambutan fruit
From Penang, we headed to Melaka, a
historical port city with a multicultural heritage. We stepped off
the bus, only to be greeted by air saturated with smoke. Sumatra was
burning its annual brush-clearing fires, we found out, and the
resulting haze was stronger than it's been in years. Just one of the
many side effects of the demand for palm oil. But we didn't let it
stop us from venturing out into the city. Melaka's colonial core is
more up-kept than Georgetown's. In addition to the quaint streets of
Chinatown, the wine red buildings of Dutch architecture add to the
charming atmosphere. Subtle lighting pulls it all together and
accentuates the simple elegance. Cafes line the way, many of the
artsy variety. We recommend Baboon Cafe, with its quiet courtyard
and some outstanding artwork.
The town is calm, but that changes
when neighboring Singaporeans visit on the weekends. Just ask the
pimped out trishaw drivers and their booming sound systems.
Our quota for heritage and history
fulfilled, we headed to Singapore for the other face of Southeast
Asia.
You got a ride in one of those?
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