Good morning, Vietnam!

  Vietnam is a sensory overload. Of the good kind. Maybe with a mix of the bizarre. Despite the lingering fallout from the American War, the new generation keeps its mind firmly on the future. The people are driven, energetic, proud, full of life and delightfully curious. By 6 am streets are bustling. This energy is evident in every aspect of life. Traffic is organized chaos, with thousands of motorcycles following their own chosen path, traffic lights and road signs be damned. Crossing a busy street as a pedestrian turns into a heart-pumping adventure. The roundabouts are the most fun. 

 A visit to a classy supermarket (fancy since most others are of the street stall variety) can turn into a jam out session to Modern Talking. Despite best attempts on both sides at communication via body language, “conversations” often turn into lost in translation moments. I tried to confirm with a waitress if the cost of a bia hoi (draft beer) remained 5,000 dong (25 cents) – since prices can change from hour to hour, depending on the server's mood – and she brought me five pints instead. At least another table needed quick refills. On the other hand, after a glassful of rice wine, P was able to have a whole hilarious conversation with a man with zero English, about travel, and wives and babies. Such practical matters. Karaoke bars abound, and dubious singing starts obliterating all other noise. Noble effort, considering the general chaos. Maybe to create some balance, numerous caged birds (every home seems to have three) mellow out the atmosphere with melodious whistling. No need for fake white noise. Street hawkers sell anything and everything imaginable, many from mobile units like bicycles. We were caught in a torrential downpour once, and tried to wait it out under some ledge, only to have an older lady casually stroll by, offering raincoats for sale. Opportunity on every corner! So this energy is so palpable, so almost physically tangible, that it infects even us. I think that's the core reason why Vietnam was so special to us. Ok, that and the food. Many stalls specialize only in one particular dish and spend years perfecting it. You can imagine the scrumptious results. I'll save the dish descriptions for their own prime spot on the blog.

  After our (mis)adventures at the border, we arrived at formerly imperial Hue, in central Vietnam, frustrated, bleary-eyed and a bit bewildered at the sight of people burning fake American money on the streets. No worries, no dissent. It was Buddha's birthday and the burning paper was just one way of celebrating it, as our friends Dong-Sub and Jinhi explained on our way to dinner. Afterward, we wandered the streets, taking in the festivities. This being Vietnam and the country of early risers, however, most places closed shop by 10.

The next day, we spent exclusively trying to solve our visa situation. After visiting travel agency after travel agency, with a random stopover at some Communist party headquarters (we never did figure it out, no English signs – it might have been the police station, haha), we finally found the elusive immigration office. They told us to come back after lunch. We did, only to be sent to the regional office in Danang.

The citadel

  Since we wanted to visit Hoi An and Danang was on the way, that didn't seem to be much of a problem. We rented a motorcycle and joined in the melee aka obstacle course aka Highway 1, south to the World Heritage town. On the way, we conquered the picturesque Hai Van Pass, made famous by the Top Gear: Vietnam Special episode.

  Hoi An has retained its cultural charm, although while sightseeing the old structures, we had to jostle elbow to elbow with hordes of other tourists. That was perfectly acceptable for an overnight visit.

  After another disappointing meeting in Danang, we decided to cool off in Elephant Springs, lounging on a bamboo platform, taking occasional dips in the cool water and stuffing ourselves on fresh fish. That was alive like minutes before. The springs were packed with people, but since they stretch for a goodly distance, we had some peace in our little enclave.

  After our problem solving if cumbersome visa run to Lao Bao, we settled in on a sleeper bus north to Hanoi, Vietnam's capital.