Vacation from a vacation - Pulau Perhentian Kecil

  Multicultural, multilingual, with a multitude of different faces passing you by on the street. Unlike the melting pot of the States, Malaysia is a mix of distinct ethnicities – Malay, Chinese, Indian, their descendants (like Peranakan) and the descendants of the colonial past - with their own distinct and authentic city enclaves, languages and, of course, religions. This may be one of the main factors why it's hard for me to get a feel for the country, a glimpse into the “national” psyche or mentality. But for now, peace rules in the sandbox and warm hospitality welcomes all guests.

  To me, Malaysia appears a country in progress. Relatively young as a nation, in many ways it's still in transition, playing catch-up with the modernized world while dealing with a developing-country way of thought. Take Kuala Lumpur, the capital. It has architecturally superior buildings, like ex-tallest Petronas Towers, that would constitute a dream of any established architect. It has modern streets filled with modern cars (and citizens that, like in more developed countries, think the simple act of walking to a store unreasonable). The city houses huge corporate offices, renown hotel chains, top restaurants with even better chefs and trendy cafes. After all, huge natural resources of oil guarantee modern world conveniences. Even a more unified national identity is slowly emerging. Just look at the high voter turnout at the most recent elections. On the other hand, you have a neighborhood in the middle of “downtown” where chiefs refuse (yes, it's pretty damn noble) to give in to the enticing development offers and cling to the old way of life and small town feel. Streets and buildings right next to the groomed ones fall into complete disrepair. Open sewers disperse some rotten smells. Service still leaves a lot to be desired, even if it's accompanied by smiles. Homeless make home on the streets (yes, I know, that's almost anywhere), but their stark poverty accentuates the huge (huge!) disparity in wealth distribution. Maybe it seems even more apparent to us since we are coming from largely Buddhist countries where ancestor worship assures elderly care. The gaps are immense and clear to the eye.

Patronas Twin Towers

Beautiful mosque, a taste of the exotic

Madras Lane

Hot pot.  The food is still cooking when served in a clay pot.

  Anyway, it's definitely different, and, as a Muslim country, so unlike any of the others we've traversed. We flew into the concrete jungle that is Kuala Lumpur for just one night. Aside from Chinatown and the tastiness contained within Madras Lane, we left further exploration for the last days of our trip, since we fly home from KL. After months and thousands of miles of travel and a bit tired by this point, we changed our plans at the last minute and grabbed an overnight bus (Sani Express! simply luxurious, although come prepared for arctic climates, that's how much locals like their AC) to Kuala Besut and a boat to Pulau Perhentian Kecil. After sifting through chalets both on Long Beach and Coral Bay, we hoofed it through the overgrown jungle path to the secluded Mira Beach and its few bungalows. While our hut was probably the least desirable of the bunch, with a huge monitor lizard and a pair of colorful geckos for resident guests, the setting was idyllic. The routine: beach, book, coconut shake, snorkeling, hammock, bed. Rinse, repeat. The ideal cure for a traveler's weariness. 

Almost like a Corona commercial, eh?

  But our main focus of this island getaway was diving. We managed to get a room at Ewan's Cafe (in my opinion, one of the best value places on the island) and signed up for a morning dive at the Temple of the Sea. Nervousness ensued. How do I put this equipment together again? How do I do a backward entry? What's the proper ascending procedure? And, most importantly... what if a shark bites me on the ass? But all questions and doubts went away the minute I hit the water. Like riding a bicycle, right? A jutting rock in the shape of a tower, its tip barely grazing the surface, Temple of the Sea was teeming with coral and sea life. Schools of fish, so intensely yellow in color, appeared with almost 3D effects. Countless varieties circled around us and contoured our movements. Even a few of the rare ones - the pufferfish, the scorpion fish, a bamboo shark and a stingray – put in an appearance. And that quiet underwater. That calm. That wonder of swimming in a huge aquarium, slow-mo. I forgot those moments from before. It was an exhilarating experience, to be repeated in Indonesia.

  Re-energized, we headed to Penang for the famous fusion that is Malaysian cuisine.  

I mastered the art of sleeping in every position